Darjeeling Days

"The Paradox of Our Age

We have bigger houses, but smaller families,

more conveniences, but less time;

we have Degrees, but less sense;

more knowledge, but less judgement;

more experts, but more problems,

more medicine, but less healthiness.

We've been all the way to the moon and back,

but we have trouble crossing the street

to meet the new neighbours;

we have built more computers,

to hold more information,

to produce more copies than ever,

but have less communication.

We've become long on quantity, but short on quality.

These are times of fast food and slow digestion;

tall men and short character;

steep profits and shallow relationships.

It is a time when there is much in the window and nothing in the storeroom."

14th Dalai Lama

The Headteachers training was a great success.  Five volunteers assisted in the delivery of the training which was entitled 'How to make lessons more engaging'.  The Heads got involved in all of the activities as the training was run a little like a lesson, with them playing the parts of the students.  We could not have asked for a better response and as a result of this training, I will be visiting all 13 schools in the Kalimpong area during the beginning of December to deliver (slightly amended) training on the same theme to teachers.  As you will remember from the last blog, things are working so well with balancing a more active and engaging lesson with the more traditional way of teaching, at New Rise, that I really hope it will be received well by others.  Certainly, if the conversations with Heads is anything to go by, then it should do.

(Training)

Following the training, I travelled the 3.5 hours to Darjeeling.  Unfortunately, it was a journey mostly spent in the clouds so my previous idea of taking the photos I should have taken the other week fell short.  Still, one day the clouds will clear and the view will be taken.  It is certainly a shame the cloud is hanging around a little longer than usual this year.  Supposedly by mid-October the days have cleared and the views across the valley from Darjeeling to Kanchanjunga are stunning.  I really had not realised that this is the third tallest mountain in the world, beaten only by Everest in Nepal and K2 in Pakistan.  Anyway, for this visit to Darjeeling it looked as though I would be spending most of the time with my head in the clouds - something I am getting used to.

Darjeeling is cold.  Much colder.  At just over 2042 metres above sea level, it is some 750 metres above Kalimpong - and you can tell.  Luckily, I had taken my small waterproof jacket and two hoodies with me so I wasn't without warm clothing.  However, the hotel was pretty chilly, with no heating - probably due to the fact that it is unnecessary for much of the year.  On a positive note, they had electric blankets.  So, despite the cold feet and fingers, it was all pretty toasty once in bed.  Following my past three winters, 12 degrees at 5pm in the afternoon, should not feel cold, but the damp from being in the clouds adds a real chill to the air.

                                                 

 (Cloudy days)

The holiday of Dusshera (there are a variety of spellings, alas none are as my previous attempts to spell the festival) will be celebrated on 19th October this year.  I am hoping to spend it with SM and the family back in Kashyem.  The festival celebrates the fight of good over evil and especially the victory of the god Rama over Ravana, the ten headed demon King who kidnapped the princess Sita (Rama's wife).  Dusshera is the tenth and final day of the Hindu festival of Navaratri.  Whilst in Darjeeling and Kalimpong before it, preparations for the Dusshera and other festivals were taking place.  On 15th October one of the other festivals - Durga Puja - was celebrated with music, song, dance and celebrations.  It is the ceremonial worship of the goddess Durga.  Kolkata, a city that holds over 4500 pujas, comes to standstill to celebrate Durga Puja.  In Darjeeling it was not quite a standstill, but I did fail to get a taxi, which meant quite a long walk uphill - no real problem as I needed to 'train' for the four day trek I would be taking the following week.  I digress.  The Durga Puja features elaborate temple and stage decorations.  Other deities such as Lakshmi and Ganesha are also a big part of the celebrations with many papier mache statues of Lakshmi (the goddess of wealth and prosperity) being made.  Like Dusshera it celebrates the battle of good over evil, following the emergence of Durga, victorious from her battle with the buffalo demon Mahishasura.  It also acts, in part, as a harvest festival marking Durga as the motherly power behind all of life and creation.  In my last blog, I think I referred to my slight confusion over the number of traditions and celebrations and how they relate to one another here in India.  I must confess that, despite learning much about the individual celebrations, I am still not sure exactly how they relate to one another.  I think it depends even on the part of India you are from, but there seem to be a certain day to celebrate flowers and fruits (harvest I guess) and another to slaughter the animals which will be eaten on Dusshera and another to float the models the have been made in the rivers.  I am learning - slowly, and am reassured by locals who have I spoken to that they are not even sure of all the different connotations of the festivals.

(Preparations for Durga Puja)

(Celebrations under way)

(A typical tourist shot - 😀)

(Dancing)

The central square in Darjeeling - Chorasto Square - was alive as I made my way back from the Tibetan Refugee Centre, more on that in a moment, and the celebrations for Durga Puja were well underway.  Traditional dance and song were performed on the stage which was placed in front of a huge stage with models of Lakshmi and the other deities - there was even a 'live' Ganesh too.  Shopping, celebrating, eating all mark ways in which to honour the festival and Darjeeling was very busy.  It was lovely to be part of the busy vibe.

(Darjeeling at night)

(The reviews for this long standing eatery are very positive.  Whilst the cake were lovely, I can't say I was impressed.  I'd suggest you visit if you need a shot of western food, but otherwise, head just down the street to Hasty Tasty.  It is completely local and the Dosas - a large pancake stuffed with different varieties of curry - are delicious.  The small soup that they are served with is one of the best things I have tasted whilst here.)

(Admittedly, the restaurant above the coffee shop at Glenary's is well worth it - but is probably the most expensive meal you can eat here - at bout £10.00)

(An absolute must.  Serving incredible coffee and wonderful pancakes.  Their hash brown, omelette and tomato plate is simply out of this world.  I highly recommend it.  Breakfast has never tasted so good.)

The local food in Darjeeling is incredibly tasty and very good value.  The Lunar restaurant where we ate one evening served an incredible paneer masala and garlic naan.  You will not go hungry here.  With an odd visit to restaurants that served memories of a more western taste, I ate just as much of the local specials - my taste for curry and the varieties it comes in is growing!  If you want a night spot then Gattys is the place to go.  It is, as I understand it, one of the only places to go for a 'late night', let alone a late night drink as things tend to close early here.  Great food too.  The mushroom ravioli with tomato sauce - amazing!

(Mushroom Ravioli with tomato sauce)

(Beer and chess)

Urm...there seems to be a theme to my blogs!  Food is beginning to feature prominently.  It isn't intentional.  I guess I have, not only become so used to delicious Indian foods that, all of sudden to be experiencing foods more akin to home is something of a novelty too.  More pictures and info for you - lucky things!

Whilst in Darjeeling, I visited the the Tibetan Refugee Centre.  It is quite the most incredible place.  Set up in 1959 by a lady called Mrs Deky Dolkar Thondup, she worked tirelessly to support the centre and ensure it was a success.  The centre is a place for Tibetan refugees to work and stay.  They work at the centre making traditional Tibetan goods in the original ways, using old looms and methods that are a century old.  The centre also houses an orphanage for children as Deky wanted to look after the youngest to the oldest Tibetans who ended up as refugees due to the conflicts over Tibet.

What do I know about history?  What does the average person know?  Most of us will have learned about the history local to to UK - usually the history of our own country or what has been done to us by others.  But, reading and seeing the history of Tibet in the photographic displays in the basement of one of the buildings at the centre, yet again I see the country of Britain, and what it, as a 'powerful' nation, has done to a smaller nation thousands of miles from home.  During the time of colonial India, I guess we thought perhaps we'd take a little more and looked to Tibet.  For Tibet, the 20th century was a time of a huge rise in nationalism and for good reason.  Starting with British imperial interest and ending with the Chinese invasion, Tibet saw death and destruction of its people, temples, traditions and way of life.  Actually, part of our action, at the turn of the 20th century, involved Britain's concern of a possible agreement between Russia and Tibet and the Tibetans 'disregard' of China's authority...accordingly the British, following a failed attempt at direct negotiations with the Dalai Lama, resorted to force.  Ironically, it seems we were duped by China and didn't really achieve anything at all for the UK, just caused the death of many Tibetans defending their freedom and land.  We sit, we ponder, we complain, we accuse...but actually who are we to criticise?  Some of the actions of our past (and not that distant past) ensure we are as guilty as any other nation in relation to asserting our dominance over those smaller than ourselves.  And, let's not pretend we have done it all without violence.  Tibet, a nation of, probably, THE most peaceful people, strives to be free of the chains of others, but due to the natural resources it has and motivations of others it is a target.  When the British finally did reach Lhasa, they found the Dalai Lama had fled to Outer Mongolia.  I had heard of the relationship between Tibet and Mongolia having been quite strong when I was in UB.   The two nations have supported one another many times over their chequered past (at one point the Khans of Mongolia also wanted Tibet).  The 14th Dalai Lama's list of awards and achievements is endless and his dedication to the plight of the Tibetan people is unwavering as his commitment to find peaceful and humane resolutions to issues.

I suppose I should not embroil myself in something I cannot possibly grasp fully.  We all want things we can't/shouldn't have.  But, what I do know is that, whatever the past, the scene I witnessed at the refugee centre was one of proactive work being done, in basic conditions, to promote and support the work that is painstakingly done everyday to look after the people at the centre.  Many of the working people are elderly, who have to flee their homes, and they sit knitting, weaving, stitching and winding the goods they sell to the general public to raise funds so they can feed and clothe themselves.  A humbling and exceptionally interesting visit.




    (Wool sorting and rolling into balls ready for use in the production of goods.  In one of he other halls, ladies were taking charge of bags of fresh sheep's wool and separating it by hand for washing, spinning and processing it into usable fibre)




    (Dyed wool drying on the roof of one of the buildings)

(This man was stitching leather strip into the button panel of a jacket)

(The loom - the lady was using a single thread of cotton, backwards and forward to create a beautiful, colourful scarf.)

a memorial to Mrs Deky Dolkar Thondup who set up the Centre

(The hospital built to serve the community at the Centre)

(The hoodie I bought from the Tibetan Refugee Centre - it is toasty warm, which is a good thing in Darjeeling)

(You may remember me talking about the small stones in the road on the way from Kalimpong to Darjeeling.  Well, in fact, the road through Darjeeling is the same.  Here you can see what I mean about the stones.  Perhaps you remember a blog in Mongolia that talked about Cocoa Pops - how many of them exist at any one time?  Well, as you can imagine, I have now pondered a bit on how many of these stones are in place in the miles of this road.  Not to mention how long it must have taken to place them all)

(Colonial buildings)

(More traditional Darjeeling houses)

(Water pipes)

(Meat on sale - chicken to the left - hungry dogs to the right, waiting for that little scrap to drop)

(Heavy loads carried using the head - everything from wood to gas canisters to luggage.  The weights managed are incredible.)

To move between main towns and cities here, people employ the use of what are simply called ‘jeeps’ – mainly because that is what they are.  Four-wheel drive vehicles with a driver and three people next to him, four people on a bench behind and four people on a bench behind that – or two each on two shorter benches facing each other.  Children are often extra, perching on their parents laps or squatting in the foot well.  A 56 km trip from Darjeeling to Kalimpong will cost 150 rupees (or £1.50) for what constitutes probably 3.5 hours on the road, especially during holiday season.  I was recommended to buy two seats as, being tall and having long legs, the journey could get uncomfortable.  I arrived at the jeep stand in Darjeeling at 0745 on the day I was returning to Kalimpong.  I bought my ‘two seats’ ticket and went outside to wait for ‘jeep number 2’.  It arrived at about 0820 and there proceeded to be a lot of shouting and carrying on.  It was a little odd as this had not happened on the way out to Darjeeling – negotiations appeared peaceful.  Lots of shouting yes seemingly always in India, but this shouting was more like argy bargy between the driver and the loader (person putting luggage on roof).  I calmly pretended I was totally ignorant to everything (not hard) and got into the jeep.  After some more time carrying on the driver went off to buy bits and pieces to take home with him at the end of the day (meat, veg etc).  When he returned, after some more shouting, this time at the man in the front of the jeep, I was asked to move to the front and the other man into the bench seat I had been in.  Why?  I haven’t the faintest idea.  However, it soon dawns on me that he must have reserved the whole bench as he is the only person sitting on the whole seat as we pull away.  12km later, having passed through Ghoom and Jorebungalow, we stopped, just stopped, in the middle of the road and picked up a lady (one assumes a wife) and three children.  Now, I am completely used to the idea that drivers believe they are the ones entitled to be on the road, but our driver on that day was, not only driving with blinkers, but then proceeded to bellow at everyone who committed any manoeuvre he did not feel was necessary – despite the fact that everyone he shouted at was only doing something he himself was guilty of dozens of times.  Yes, I know I sound like a backseat driver, but I am pleased to say that this driver is the exception to the rule, because the vast majority are very professional and incredible safe when at the wheel.  At the end of a long (but fairly pleasant – the Mamma Mia 2 soundtrack, breeze in my face and views to die for) journey, the driver stopped and left us.  Usually there is an ‘unloader’.  Clearly however, this driver’s attitude was well known because the ‘unloader’ seemingly refused to unload.  Luckily for me the man in the bench behind me got up on to the roof and began getting his bags down.  He asked me which one mine was, and I promptly told him.  He handed it down and I thanked him.  Early in the journey his little boy had been throwing up out of the window behind me.  I say out, but it wasn’t all out, and I gave the family a packet of tissues to help them clean up.  I guess it was his way of saying thanks.  Whatever, I was just very grateful he was there.  After lunch and the, relatively, short journey home, I arrived back in Kashyem in time to walk Nat back to Barranumba and get back home before dark – no Toymba this time though - just a nice stretch of the legs and the opportunity to work off a fraction of the food I had consumed.

So, Darjeeling proves to be a busy, thriving town full of the hustle and bustle that comes with this part of the world.  The Himalayan train doesn't quite make the town centre but it winds its way out of the town as we approach from Kalimpong.  Perhaps one day I will get to ride it, but for now it is enough to watch the tiny engine and it miniature carriages carry people up steep roads that are so narrow two cars can barely pass let alone adding a train in to the mix.  Somehow it works.  The place looks like chaos, it sounds chaotic but, somehow, it all goes together and everyone gets to where they need to go.  Perhaps a little slower than they might, but in a place where time seems to slow down to account for the different pace of life, not even that seems to matter.  I'll be back in Darjeeling for my trek, but really only just passing through.  But, I have plenty of time and I'll definitely be back - if just for some of the food from the great (and not so great) eateries I have managed to visit.